Right across the street from Santa Maria Liberatrice in Testaccio, Pasticceria Linari welcomes the neighborhood in for a light snack and conversation. The day we discovered it was the feast day of the patron saint of the church and the place was buzzing with people who were pouring out of the church. Besides the religious holiday, this was a celebration day for the entire neighborhood of Testaccio. You could see the camaraderie of the patrons, they were people who knew one another.
If you’ve ever wanted to travel and live like the natives then a bakery like Linari is a good choice for your experiment. It’s located in a working class neighborhood that is not flooded with tourists and the items are made for the local taste and priced to be affordable. You pick up local customs if you pay attention, like offering a few coins with the receipt for faster service (although looking dazed and confused worked very well for me) and feel as though you could easily blend in if only you could keep your mouth shut! We were greeted by several locals who seemed slightly amused, but happy that we were able to see something of their daily routine. It was a win win situation and I look forward to going back there on our next visit to Rome
Linari, like Pasticceria Bernini on Via Marmoratta in Testaccio, is also more than a bakery, it also serves gelato and sells other items including wine. Here are some photos of the gelato that are decorated with the main ingredient of each flavor. Cute idea, especially for children who cannot yet read.
And now for a little something different:
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